The myriad of mistakes that are made just tacking up don't help and as Jochen Schleese, Master Saddler explains succinctly in his new book "Suffering in Silence" an enormous amount of responsibility rests with us. The rider.
First off let's look at saddle position. Incredibly to me, most people don't know where the scapular
( shoulder muscle) of the horse lives, moves and places with their saddle. I once visited a farm to view a prospective horse for my daughter. The owner of the farm had a boarding and training operation and her own daughter was now adult and competing. They tacked up the horse together. The saddle was up in front of and over the scapula, and the girth was quickly tightened. Outside we went into the high wind and tiny outdoor ring. Great weather for trying a horse. Seriously. Love seeing them in the elements.
I pointed out that perhaps the saddle was a 'little far forward' figuring they'd fix it.
"No," came the reply, " It's a bit big for him so we place it here because it'll end up there anyway." Enough said.
We watched the horse go.
" He doesn't like to canter," they announced kicking him into next week. No kidding. The young woman ( who was on the heavy side for the size horse which didn't help), dismounted.
" Would I like to try him?" she asked.
" Sure," I answered and undid the girth. I moved the saddle back down his neck and into the right spot. Yep it was too wide for him. I pulled the stupid foam pad up underneath and sighed. It wouldn't help but might be just enough for me to walk, trot and canter him each way to see how I liked him.
It made a significant difference. To the point that the owner gasped when he deftly picked up a canter on cue and cantered on without issue.
A saddle that is too long for a horse will damage his sacroiliac as will as saddle that pinches the wither. The saddle obviously also needs to fit the rider. So do take a look at Jochen's book, it really is an eye opener for many.
When starting a young horse many people do believe that a close enough fit will do and certainly we know the horse will significantly change his topline and shape as he develops the carrying muscles. But is 'close enough' truly good enough. No. Fit the saddle, refit it as he grows. Regularly. It is the best money you will spend. Use someone that has trained professionally and has sincere experience, good equipment and a good reputation for this service. You can often find help at the showgrounds and pre-book with saddlers on site at the major events.
Then there are the students who present their horses for lessons with tack and other issues. Here's just a few:-
1. The polo wraps that do not overlap at the back of the fetlock but are split and wrapped beneath the joint and then overwrapped back up the leg. Inevitably the polos end up falling down after an hour. Cutting a wrap of any type across the back of the leg where all the important tendons and ligaments meet and then working the horse is a recipe for damage. There is a great DVD Equine Leg Work that explains every sort of wrap you might ever need to apply and how to do it correctly. Or the polos are too short for their oversized warmblood which serve almost no purpose at all. Buy longer and wider wraps folks. They are made in pony, horse and extra long sizes. If the longer sizes are too big for the front legs you can always cut them down but obviously one that is too short is just a liability.
2. The narrow pinching girth that is snatched up tight the moment the saddle hits the horses back. And yes, sometimes they appear to be thrown up there. How would you like being cinched up right off the bat. Take your time. Walk your horse out. Then tighten it SLOWLY. If he is cinchy try a wider girth that widens at the ventral line ( belly). Many horses will work better and be more forward with this type of girth. Jumpers will appreciate the extra protection from fence rubs too.
3. The disappearing, wrinkles everywhere saddle pad without a contour. Again. You get what you pay for. Buy a quality saddle pad or two, wash them after each ride. Adjust the velcro to keep the pad where you place it and be sure to pull it up in the saddle channel when tacking up. Contoured types are more comfortable for your horse and will stay put.
4. Bit issues. So much to cover here and enough to blog about as a topic on its own. Obviously size is most important and type also. Less is more. I have often directed new students to switch a bit or switch a double to a snaffle bridle.
5. I won't labor on this one. But yes, no foot, no horse. And bringing a horse to a lesson or clinic with small shoes, long toes, poor farrier work is once again compounding a problem that will ultimately cost you and your horse severely.
Once you have 'fixed' these and other common failings perhaps your horse won't appear as lame or uncomfortable. Of course he may indeed have a sincere medical issue that requires veterinary attention. As the trainer at what point should you say, " Stop. Your horse is lame. Dismount."
This is always a difficult question. Ideally you'd do just that. But sometimes a bit of detective work is required. Does the horse warm up out of it? Does the horse appear lame under a different rider? A whole other list of questions to be asked and analyzed. But yes. If I see it, I work a few minutes and see what I can define. If it isn't just stiffness from standing in the stall I will discuss what I see ( discreetly) with the rider.
If your horse is "acting up" it is highly likely he is in pain. Either you are riding him poorly, confusing him and directly causing him pain or he has a health issue. Unfortunately poor saddle fit can permanently damage a horse. Not all vets are good at seeing lameness. Just like us some are better at it than others. So find a good diagnostic vet, not one that will just go through the motions and expense a lot of money on unnecessary full work ups. There is no point in spending the money on your trainer if your horse isn't up to the job. Good training will help in all cases, but the well-being of your horse must be put first and foremost and you and your trainer must know what issues you are working with.
Yes I know plenty of trainers who want to collect the almighty dollar and will simply ' work the horse through it'. So beware. Especially if your trainer is one of those that likes to suck up lesson time riding the horse for you. While sometimes it is helpful to have the trainer 'remind' the horse of his job or help you train the horse ( which is a different program entirely), ideally your horse will be working ahead of you training wise so you can learn how to ride him yourself. Remember, if the horse looks 'off' he usually is!
Listen to your horse. Ninety nine percent of horses will work happily for you if you are setting them up properly to do so.
